Tips on how to Take away a Hub Assembly on a 1996 F-150

The base model 1996 Ford F-one hundred fifty was a two-wheel drive pickup truck, equipped with a 4.9-liter in-line six-cylinder engine. A 5.zero-liter was an optional engine for the base two-wheel drive 1996 F-150. The front wheel hub on the 1996 F-one hundred fifty is an integral a part of the front brake rotor. The rotor meeting comprises the lug studs, as well as the wheel bearings inside the rotor body. Elimination and substitute of the hub requires substitute of the rotor, and presumably the wheel bearings.

Instructions

• Loosen the front lug nuts on the aspect that you are going to change the hub utilizing a tire iron. Elevate the entrance of the F-a hundred and fifty using a 1-ton or better capability ground jack. Place jack stands beneath the entrance body rails, simply inward from the lower control arms. Decrease the truck onto the jack stands. Remove the entrance wheel lug nuts, then remove the entrance wheel from the truck.
• Insert a small pry bar between the front of the rotor and the brake caliper. Pry the caliper slightly outward to release the pads from the brake rotor. Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts using a ratchet and Allen key socket. Pull the brake caliper upward and off of the brake rotor, utilizing your small pry bar if needed. Cling the caliper from the front coil spring using a metal garments hanger. Spray the bleeder screw on the caliper with penetrating spray, and allow the penetrating spray to set for no less than 15 minutes.
• Take away the grease hub cap from the center of the brake rotor, using a flat-head screwdriver to pry the cap free. Remove the cotter pin from the wheel hub using pliers and discard the cotter pin. Take away the castellated nut retainer from the nut. Take away the three/four-inch retaining nut from the spindle shaft using a ratchet and socket. Pull the retaining washer off of the spindle using pliers.
• Take away the middle outer bearing cone from the wheel hub utilizing needle nose pliers. Discard the bearing if you’re changing the bearings. Pull the whole rotor meeting free from the spindle by hand. Flip the inboard side of the rotor upward. Remove the internal grease seal from the again of the rotor utilizing a flat-head screwdriver. Take away the internal bearing cone from the rotor with needle nose pliers. Discard it in case you are changing the bearings.
• Remove all the grease out of your bearings utilizing aerosol elements cleaner. Examine every roller bearing to make sure they don’t seem to be scored or damaged. Discard and change each bearings if they are not in perfect condition. Remove the grease from the retaining washer and nut as well as the grease cap. Use a rag to wipe the parts clear if needed.
• Spray the brand new brake rotor with aerosol parts cleaner completely to take away any traces of the manufacturing facility installed rust stopping oil. Set the rotor with the outboard facet going through downward on the rotor box. Don’t set the rotor immediately onto a table or the ground. Pack the brand new bearing with grease. Set up the inboard bearing cone into the again of the rotor, then install the grease seal onto the rotor. Faucet the grease seal in place with a grease seal driver.
• Set the rotor onto the spindle of the truck. Hold the rotor on the spindle with one hand. Pack the inside of the uncovered spindle space with grease. Pack the outer wheel bearing with grease. Insert the outer bearing cone into the middle of the rotor hub, on the spindle. Install the outer retaining washer by hand, then flip the retaining nut onto the spindle a number of turns by hand. This will guarantee correct threading of the nut.
• Tighten the spindle nut onto the spindle with a torque wrench and socket, between 17 and 25 foot-pounds. Rotate the brake rotor counterclockwise while you torque the nut. Back the nut off one-half turn. Tighten the nut between 18 and 25 inch-kilos utilizing a three/8-inch-drive torque wrench and socket while turning the rotor counterclockwise. Install the retainer and the cotter pin. Bend each cotter pin ends across the retainer with pliers. Set up the grease cap and gently tap it in place with a rubber mallet if needed.
• Spray the complete rotor assembly again with aerosol brake components cleaner. Take away all grease residue, in addition to any of your fingerprints from the rotor surfaces. Apply a light coating of grease to the raised outboard face of the rotor, in between every of the lug studs.
• Open the bleeder screw on the caliper by turning it counterclockwise with an open-finish wrench. Compress the caliper pistons using channel locks in opposition to the inboard brake pad and the rear of the caliper. Tighten the bleeder screw with your open finish wrench before you release the brake pad and caliper from your channel locks. Set the caliper and pads onto the brand new rotor meeting, and tighten the caliper bolts between 22 and 26 foot-kilos, utilizing your half of-inch-drive torque wrench and Allen key socket to tighten the bolts.
• Set up the front wheel onto the truck and tighten the lug nuts cosy together with your tire iron. Raise the front of the truck off the jack stands, then take away the stands from beneath the truck. Lower the F-150 to the ground. Tighten the lug nuts to a hundred foot-pounds in a star-shaped pattern utilizing your 1/2-inch-drive torque wrench and a thirteen/sixteen-inch wheel nut socket. Proper torquing procedures are important to eliminating entrance wheel and brake vibration. Do not overtighten the entrance wheel lug nuts.

 

 

 

Tips on how to Reset the Brake Shoe Light on a Z3

The Z3 was BMW’s broadly successful try to enter the compact roadster market. The Z3 entered the marketplace in the 1996 mannequin 12 months with a 138-horsepower, 1.9-liter 4-cylinder engine. By time it reached its closing mannequin yr in 2002, the Z3 topped out with a 225-horsepower, 3.zero-liter six-cylinder engine. Resetting the brake shoe mild is identical process on all seven mannequin years, but there may be a small error, particularly if you use non-BMW pads, that will trigger you to make use of an alternate method.

instructions

1. Place yourself in the driver’s seat and insert the vehicle’s key into the ignition. Begin the engine and confirm that the brake pad warning indicator extinguishes. If it doesn’t flip off, flip the ignition to the “Off” position and proceed to Step 2.
2. Flip the key to the “On” position.
3. Wait at least 30 seconds, then start the vehicle’s engine.
4. Verify that the brake pad warning indicator has extinguished. If the sunshine stays on, recheck the connection to the sensor. If the connection is good, there may be a difficulty within the car’s electrical system that requires the expertise of a professional.

 

 

 

How you can Restore a Motorcycle Seat

To repair a bike seat it’s generally finest to take away the old cover and replace it with a brand new one. An affordable venture, repairing the duvet will help defend the foam padding beneath from damage brought on by water or friction. With a few tools and vinyl fabric, you possibly can repair a broken seat so it’ll feel and look like new again.

Instructions

• Take away the damaged seat overlaying by taking out the staples within the back. Do this utilizing a Philips screwdriver or instruments used specifically for removing upholstery.
• Measure the width and length of the froth padding to determine how much material you will want to purchase. If the old overlaying is undamaged, you can deliver it with you to make use of as a guide. Vinyl coverings might be present in most crafting shops or you may get them organized from motorbike shops or online.
• Place the new covering over the foam padding. Collect the two sides and press them collectively on the again of the seat. Staple the sides to the seat utilizing a staple gun and 3/eight-inch staples.
• Work your way around the seat, pulling and gathering cloth to create a smooth floor on the entrance of the seat. Safe with staples.
• Verify to ensure the masking is secure and smooth in the front. If you discover small wrinkles, you possibly can pull again more material to create a smooth surface.

 

 

 

How to Replace the Front Parking Lights on the 2003 Nissan Xterra

The Xterra was launched by Nissan for the 2000 mannequin year as a compact sport utility automobile that was based on the Frontier pickup truck chassis. For 2003, the Xterra retained the re-designed front finish from the earlier 12 months, which integrated its forward-dealing with turn alerts and parking lights in a single assembly alongside the headlights. The parking lights have been intended to provide further illumination to ensure that the Xterra was seen by different motorists, and like another sort of sunshine, were powered by fragile bulbs. Replacing a burnt-out or damaged parking mild bulb is easier than it could appear, as the mixture light meeting is attached to the Xterra by a single bolt.

Instructions
1
Park the Xterra and set the parking brake. Activate the parking lights and stand in front of the Xterra to determine which parking gentle bulb have to be replaced. Turn off the parking lights.

2
Open the hood. Remove the bolt attaching the front combination flip sign and parking light meeting to the entrance of the engine compartment, located directly above the meeting near the front fringe of the fender, using a Phillips screwdriver.

3
Pull the mix light assembly forward until the retaining pin on the decrease rear portion of the meeting is free from the Xterra’s chassis.

four
Turn the parking mild bulb socket, located on the prime of the combination gentle meeting, counterclockwise. Pull the socket and bulb out of the assembly. Pull the damaged bulb out of the socket by hand

5
Push a new 194-style bulb into the socket, using gloves to protect the glass portion of the bulb from the pure oils in your skin. Push the bulb socket into the mix gentle meeting, then flip the socket clockwise till it locks into place.

6
Align the retaining pin on the rear of the mix mild meeting with the mounting hole within the Xterra’s chassis. Push the assembly into place, then screw the mounting bolt into place at the prime of the assembly.

 

 

 

The basic principles associated with a dual overhead cam engine

The basic principles associated with a dual overhead cam engine : overhead cam configurations are a pure fit for inline engines the method that push rods are a pure fit for v-configured engines. the ohc style isnt inherently higher when compared to the push-rod style, however it will provide engineers a lot of additional freedom in terms of optimizing engine style. using 2 cams per head offers much more flexibility than hiring one, that can possibly be a boon out to performance in the event the motors been engineered to bring advantage of them

basic configuration
most v-configured engines and lots of older inline engines used a cam-in-block or push rod style, in which the cam mounts directly into engine block and actuates a collection of rocker arm levers via push rods. an overhead-cam engine uses a camshaft mounted out to the highest of one’s cylinder head, simply higher than the valves ; the ohc actuates the valves via a collection of short cam followers, or rocker-arm-like levers. a collection of hydraulic lash adjusters one aspect of one’s levers keeps them in touch with the cam and valves and modulates valve raise at low and high rpm. normally, this camshaft would actuate each the intake and exhaust valves as an in-block cam would. an dual overhead cam engine uses 2 camshafts per head, four cams total connected to v-configured engine. one camshaft actuates the intake valves but a separate one regarding the exhaust valves.

engine airflow
engines would like air in order to make horsepower. air contains oxygen, that allows fuel out to burn within the cylinders and contribute energy ; the additional oxygen the engine gets, the additional power it might create. push-rod engines are somewhat compromised in terms of airflow as a result of the intake ports should bend or narrow out to clear the push rod passing through the pinnacle direct from cam out to the rocker arms. the ohc configurations primary virtue is it gets rid of the restrictive push-rod pinch, allowing engineers out to use perfectly straight intake ports. this pays dividends each in terms of the quantity of air going directly into engine — that boosts horsepower — and in torque-enhancing air velocity.

ohc vs pushrod
in low-performance applications, the ohc configuration is primarily a suggests that out to cheap and efficient packaging ; it’s, of course, cheaper out to add a cam out to a head than out to mould it directly into block and install the required lifters and push rods. however the look starts out to show its colours as horsepower levels rise. comparing the cam-in-block, 2. 5-liter chevrolet iron duke out to its modern ohc 2. 3-liter ford pinto engine, you discover that the ohc style is simply sensible for concerning 3 horsepower within the engines lowest-performance type. however even the most recent dukes created throughout 1993 merely managed a hundred and ten horsepower, compared out to the fords 119 horsepower in naturally aspirated type, 215 horsepower factory-turbocharged and well over 1, 000 horsepower with aftermarket elements.

sohc vs dohc
2 cams per head arent inherently higher than one — its how the manufacturer takes advantage out of them that matters. using 2 cams on every head allows engineers additional freedom in optimizing the valve angle, and by it port and combustion chamber form. the look conjointly lends itself out to the use of 1 or 2 centrally mounted spark plugs, which can certainly additional enhance combustion efficiency. however, by so much, the dohcs trump card is it allows for use of freelance, computer-controlled cam adjustment. by rotating the intake cam relative out to the exhaust cam, manufacturers will modification valve overlap — how long the intake and exhaust valves are open at the very same time — out to enhance either low-end torque, fuel economy or emissions performance or out to bias the engine toward horsepower at high rpm.

a case for only cams
whereas the dohc configuration allows for additional tuneability and flexibility in style, it should not be worth the price of conversion if your engine already uses a single-cam head. the most important distinction in terms of performance comes from switching a push rod configuration out to an overhead cam configuration, and there will be lots of builders out there creating huge horsepower with an sohc engine. mercedes amg division typically uses single-cam heads, and fords 2. 3-liter is well known for creating four-digit horsepower numbers with an sohc head but a huge turbocharger. within the real world, dohc heads are not less than as a lot of the most selling factor as boon out to performance. they will can assist you out to obtain the most away from any engine in terms of driveability and horsepower if youre willing out to invest the cash and time in engineering however arent a prerequisite where absolute performance is anxious.

 

 

 

How to Replace the Gear on a Governor for a 1987 23 HP Kohler Motor

How to Replace the Gear on a Governor for a 1987 23 HP Kohler Motor

instructions

• ensure the kohler motor is turned off.
• notice the flywheel upon the prime of one’s kohlers engine block. the flywheel bears an immediately recognizable wheel-shape, coated by a bolted down iron shroud. take away the bolts at intervals this shroud with counterclockwise twists given by a socket wrench.
• pry the loose iron shroud over the flywheel along with your hands. this reveals the governor piece only off on the proper facet of one’s flywheel, positioned not far away from the magneto.
• loosen the bolt directly under the governor flap. flip this bolt with counterclockwise twists from the socket wrench to firmly disconnect the governor flap from this purpose. this affords admittance to the round gear upon the governor.
• flip the gear counterclockwise and carry it up and from the engine along with your hands. you’ll want the aid associated with an open-end wrench to firmly dislodge the gear. set the recent gear aside.
• position the new replacement gear on a governor and secure it by turning it clockwise into place.
• loop the governors flap back over its bolt and tighten the bolt with clockwise twists from the socket wrench. this can secure the parts of one’s governor back into place upon the engine block.
• position the iron shroud back within the flywheel and reinsert its bolts along with your socket wrench.

 

 

How to Replace the Rear Brakes on a 1993 Ford Bronco

How to Replace the Rear Brakes on a 1993 Ford Bronco: In 1993, The Bronco was simply three mannequin years from elimination, as the Expedition replaced it in 1997. The 1993 Bronco came normal with a 5.zero-liter V-eight engine, four-wheel drive, and a front disc and rear drum brake configuration. Replacing the rear drum brakes on the 1993 Bronco requires special care, as there are quite a few small elements to maintain track of. As you remove the varied parts, lay them on a flat surface in the same place they mount on the truck. It will show you how to when reinstalling them.

Instructions :
Removal

• Loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheels with a breaker bar and socket. Elevate the rear of the Bronco off the ground, using a ground jack, and slide jack stands below the Bronco’s frame rails. Lower the SUV onto the jack stands. Remove the lug nuts and pull the rear wheels from the vehicle.
• Pull the retaining washers from the wheel studs with needle-nostril pliers, if equipped. Discard these washers, as you do not need them.
• Pry the drum brake adjustment plug from the rear of the drum brake backing plate with a flat-head screwdriver. Insert a small flat-head screwdriver into the adjustment gap until it contacts the brake shoe adjusting lever, the steel lever above the star-formed adjuster wheel. Press the adjusting lever away from the adjuster wheel with the screwdriver and rotate the adjuster wheel downward with a drum brake adjuster instrument till the drum rotates freely, then pull the drum off. Grip the rear drum on the three and 9 o’clock positions and wiggle the drum as you pull it outward.
• Draw a diagram or take an image of the drum brake assembly, paying particular consideration to all of the springs, levers, cables and guides. Also document the colour of every spring to help in reinstallation.
• Place a drain pan under the brake assembly and spray your entire meeting liberally with spray brake cleaner. This prevents asbestos dust particles from changing into airborne.
• Place giant slip-joint pliers over the wheel cylinder, so both sides of the pliers’ jaws are contacting each of the wheel cylinder’s pistons. Open the wheel cylinder’s bleeder valve with a mix wrench, then instantly squeeze the pliers till the pistons retract into the wheel cylinder. Instantly shut the bleeder valve and remove the pliers.
• Pry the adjusting lever downward and toward the rear of the car with a flat-head screwdriver and slide the adjusting lever from the hole in the secondary shoe — the rear-most shoe — frame. Take away the adjusting lever spring from the adjuster lever and primary shoe — the entrance-most shoe — frame. Pull the self-adjuster cable’s finish from the adjuster lever.
• Look at the highest of the brake assembly and find the pin at the 12 o’clock position; this is the anchor pin. Pry the secondary shoe-to-anchor spring from the anchor pin with drum brake multi-software, then repeat this step to pry the primary shoe-to-anchor pin spring from the anchor pin.
• Pull the self-adjuster cable end from the anchor pin and from its information on the rear-most part of the drum brake assembly. Pull the adjuster cable from the adjuster lever, then set the cable and lever aside for reuse. Pivot the cable information outward to align its retaining pins with the holes in the secondary shoe, then pull the guide from the shoe. Pull the metal plate off the anchor pin and set it apart for reuse.
• Take away the first and secondary brake shoe maintain-down springs by compressing the springs and turning them till the notch in the springs’ caps align with their retaining pins, utilizing the drum brake multi-tool. Launch the springs and pull them from the shoes.
• Pull the brake shoes away from the drum brake backing plate, then take away the adjusting screw assembly. Take away the primary brake shoe and depart the secondary shoe hanging by the parking brake lever and cable.
• Pull the parking brake link and its spring — the thin bar spanning the width of the backing plate — from the parking brake lever. Pull the parking brake spring away from the parking brake cable-to-parking brake lever anchor, utilizing slip-joint pliers, and slide the anchor from its bed in the parking brake lever.
• Pull the secondary shoe and parking brake lever from the vehicle. Grip the U-shaped retaining clip retaining the parking brake lever on the brake shoe, using needle-nose pliers, and pull the retaining clip from the parking brake lever. Pull the washer off the parking brake lever and take away the lever from the secondary shoe. Set the lever aside for reuse.
• Repeat steps three by way of 12 on the opposite side of the Bronco.

Installation

• Information the parking brake lever’s pivot pin by means of its mounting hole into the top of the new secondary shoe. Slide the washer onto the end of the pivot pin, then align the U-shaped clip with the groove in the pivot pin. Press the U-shaped clip into the groove with slip-joint pliers.
• Maintain the secondary shoe close to the top of the parking brake cable. Pull the spring away from the parking brake cable-to-parking brake lever anchor with slip-joint pliers and slide the anchor into its bed within the parking brake lever. Release the spring.
• Set the secondary shoe in place on the rear of the drum brake backing plate, guiding the shoe-retaining pin thorough its gap within the shoe’s frame. Information the shoe maintain-down spring onto the retaining pin, then press it downward until the tip of the pin protrudes from the spring’s cap, using the multi-software, and switch the spring a half flip to lock the pin on the spring.
• Place the adjusting screw onto the flat on the lower a part of the secondary shoe, with the threaded facet of the screw towards the secondary shoe. Set the parking brake link on the flat spot on the higher part of the secondary shoe’s frame, with the hyperlink’s spring side going through away from the secondary shoe.
• Information the primary shoe onto the drum backing plate, so the flat on the lower part of its frame slides into the slot on the free end of the adjuster screw, the slot within the parking brake hyperlink slides onto the flat section near the top of the shoe’s body and the shoe-retaining pin goes by its gap in the shoe’s frame. Install the maintain-down spring in the identical method you probably did on the secondary screw in Step 3.
• Slide the adjuster cable information’s tabs by means of their holes in the secondary shoe and lay the information flat on the secondary shoe’s frame. Slide the anchor pin plate back onto the anchor pin.
• Guide the top of the self-adjuster cable onto the anchor pin and route it over the cable guide. Insert the adjuster lever into its holes on the base of the secondary shoe and hook the free end of the self adjuster cable into gap on the top of the adjuster lever.
• Hook the short facet of the first shoe-to-anchor pin spring in the hole close to the highest of the first shoe’s frame. Pry the lengthy finish of the first shoe-to-anchor pin spring over the anchor pin, using the multi-tool. Repeat this step to put in the secondary shoe-to-anchor pin spring.
• Connect the short facet of the adjusting lever spring to the decrease hole in the main shoe by hooking it by way of the hole. Pull the spring toward the top of the adjusting lever with slip-joint pliers and slide the hook on the lengthy end of the spring within the hole on the highest of the adjusting lever.
• Align the wheel stud holes within the drum with the wheel studs and press the drum into place over the brand new brake footwear till it seats on the wheel hub.
• Repeat steps 1 via 10 on the other side of the Bronco.
• Adjusting the Brakes
• Insert a flat-head screwdriver into the adjusting hole in the drum brake backing plate and press the adjusting lever away from the adjuster wheel. Rotate the adjuster wheel upward with a drum brake adjuster till the sneakers lock onto the drum, which is whenever you can not rotate the drum freely by hand.
• Rotate the adjuster wheel three-quarters of a turn downward to back the shoes into their automatic adjusting position. Press the drum brake adjuster plug into the opening on the drum brake backing plate.
• Repeat steps 1 and a pair of on the opposite aspect of the truck.
• Set up the rear wheels and hand-tighten the lug nuts. Elevate the SUV off the jack stands and remove them. Decrease the Bronco to the ground and tighten the lug nuts, in a crisscross sample, to a hundred foot-pounds if the SUV has 5 lug nuts or a hundred and forty foot-kilos if it has eight lug nuts, using a torque wrench and socket.
• Begin the SUV, then press and launch the brake pedal 5 to 10 times to activate the auto-adjusting characteristic of the drum brake system. Check the fluid degree in the master cylinder and fill it to the “Max” line, if needed.
• Take any outdated brake fluid to a used automotive fluid recycling center for disposal. Some auto parts stores take previous fluids for free.

 

 

 

How to Bleed Brakes on a 93 Ford Bronco

How to Bleed Brakes on a 93 Ford Bronco: The total-size Bronco debuted within the 1978 mannequin 12 months after 11 years of the Bronco being a compact SUV. The 1993 Bronco came normal with a 185-horsepower, 5.0-liter V-eight engine, and had an non-compulsory 200-horsepower, 5.8-liter V-8 engine available. The 1993 Bronco came commonplace with entrance disc brakes and rear drums, however had non-obligatory rear disc brakes; additionally normal on the Bronco was a rear-wheel antilock brake system. Bleeding the brake system on the 1993 Bronco consists of removing air from the grasp cylinder and all four wheels.

Instructions

• Find the brake master cylinder on the motive force’s aspect of the firewall. Fill the master cylinder to its “Max” line with recent DOT 3 brake fluid.
• Place a small drain pan beneath the master cylinder and loosen the brake line fittings to the master cylinder one full turn, using a line wrench. Instruct an assistant to press the brake pedal to the floor, and pay attention for the telltale gurgling sound of air escaping from the fittings. Tighten the brake line fittings, then tell your assistant to launch the brake pedal. Repeat this step till no gurgling sound comes from the master cylinder.
• Refill the grasp cylinder to its “Max” line with recent DOT 3 brake fluid.
• Kick wheel chocks below the entrance of the entrance tires, then increase the rear of the Bronco with a ground jack. Slide jack stands underneath the SUV’s frame rails, then decrease the Bronco onto the jack stands.
• Position your self behind the passenger’s facet rear wheel and find the bleeder valve on the top of the drum brake backing plate or caliper body on drum or disc brakes, respectively.
• Press a 1/four-inch inside diameter, clear vinyl hose onto the bleeder valve, and place the opposite end of the hose in a clear, clear container. Pour DOT 3 brake fluid into the clear, clear container till it submerges the end of the hose.
• Instruct your assistant to press and launch the brake pedal 5 or 6 occasions, then hold down the pedal. Open the bleeder valve by turning the bleeder valve one full flip counterclockwise with a combination wrench. Watch the submerged finish of the hose and search for air bubbles to return from the hose. Tighten the bleeder valve. Repeat this step till no air bubbles come from the tip of the hose. Pull the hose from the bleeder valve once the air bubbles no longer seem, then refill the grasp cylinder to the “Max” line.
• Slide across the truck so you are behind the rear, driver’s side wheel. Repeat steps 6 and seven to bleed this wheel.
• Raise the rear of the SUV off the jack stands and take away the stands. Lower the automobile to the ground. Take away the wheel chocks from below the entrance wheels.
• Wedge wheel chocks underneath the rear wheels, then elevate the front of the Bronco with a floor jack. Place jack stands beneath the automobile’s frame rails, then lower the Bronco onto the jack stands.
• Place your self behind the front passenger’s side tire and discover the bleeder valve on the top, rear of the caliper’s body. Repeat steps 6 and 7 to bleed the passenger’s aspect entrance wheel.
• Move to the driver’s facet of the SUV and repeat steps 6 and 7 to bleed the driving force’s aspect entrance wheel.
• Elevate the Bronco off the jack stands and remove the jack stands. Lower the automobile to the ground. Check drive the automobile to confirm the brakes function correctly.

If you want to bleed the rear ABS valve, you need a specialty device to which only a dealership of an automotive restore facility would have access.