Tips on how to Take away a Hub Assembly on a 1996 F-150

Posted: September 24, 2012 in How To
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The base model 1996 Ford F-one hundred fifty was a two-wheel drive pickup truck, equipped with a 4.9-liter in-line six-cylinder engine. A 5.zero-liter was an optional engine for the base two-wheel drive 1996 F-150. The front wheel hub on the 1996 F-one hundred fifty is an integral a part of the front brake rotor. The rotor meeting comprises the lug studs, as well as the wheel bearings inside the rotor body. Elimination and substitute of the hub requires substitute of the rotor, and presumably the wheel bearings.

Instructions

  • Loosen the front lug nuts on the aspect that you are going to change the hub utilizing a tire iron. Elevate the entrance of the F-a hundred and fifty using a 1-ton or better capability ground jack. Place jack stands beneath the entrance body rails, simply inward from the lower control arms. Decrease the truck onto the jack stands. Remove the entrance wheel lug nuts, then remove the entrance wheel from the truck.
  • Insert a small pry bar between the front of the rotor and the brake caliper. Pry the caliper slightly outward to release the pads from the brake rotor. Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts using a ratchet and Allen key socket. Pull the brake caliper upward and off of the brake rotor, utilizing your small pry bar if needed. Cling the caliper from the front coil spring using a metal garments hanger. Spray the bleeder screw on the caliper with penetrating spray, and allow the penetrating spray to set for no less than 15 minutes.
  • Take away the grease hub cap from the center of the brake rotor, using a flat-head screwdriver to pry the cap free. Remove the cotter pin from the wheel hub using pliers and discard the cotter pin. Take away the castellated nut retainer from the nut. Take away the three/four-inch retaining nut from the spindle shaft using a ratchet and socket. Pull the retaining washer off of the spindle using pliers.
  • Take away the middle outer bearing cone from the wheel hub utilizing needle nose pliers. Discard the bearing if you’re changing the bearings. Pull the whole rotor meeting free from the spindle by hand. Flip the inboard side of the rotor upward. Remove the internal grease seal from the again of the rotor utilizing a flat-head screwdriver. Take away the internal bearing cone from the rotor with needle nose pliers. Discard it in case you are changing the bearings.
  • Remove all the grease out of your bearings utilizing aerosol elements cleaner. Examine every roller bearing to make sure they don’t seem to be scored or damaged. Discard and change each bearings if they are not in perfect condition. Remove the grease from the retaining washer and nut as well as the grease cap. Use a rag to wipe the parts clear if needed.
  • Spray the brand new brake rotor with aerosol parts cleaner completely to take away any traces of the manufacturing facility installed rust stopping oil. Set the rotor with the outboard facet going through downward on the rotor box. Don’t set the rotor immediately onto a table or the ground. Pack the brand new bearing with grease. Set up the inboard bearing cone into the again of the rotor, then install the grease seal onto the rotor. Faucet the grease seal in place with a grease seal driver.
  • Set the rotor onto the spindle of the truck. Hold the rotor on the spindle with one hand. Pack the inside of the uncovered spindle space with grease. Pack the outer wheel bearing with grease. Insert the outer bearing cone into the middle of the rotor hub, on the spindle. Install the outer retaining washer by hand, then flip the retaining nut onto the spindle a number of turns by hand. This will guarantee correct threading of the nut.
  • Tighten the spindle nut onto the spindle with a torque wrench and socket, between 17 and 25 foot-pounds. Rotate the brake rotor counterclockwise while you torque the nut. Back the nut off one-half turn. Tighten the nut between 18 and 25 inch-kilos utilizing a three/8-inch-drive torque wrench and socket while turning the rotor counterclockwise. Install the retainer and the cotter pin. Bend each cotter pin ends across the retainer with pliers. Set up the grease cap and gently tap it in place with a rubber mallet if needed.
  • Spray the complete rotor assembly again with aerosol brake components cleaner. Take away all grease residue, in addition to any of your fingerprints from the rotor surfaces. Apply a light coating of grease to the raised outboard face of the rotor, in between every of the lug studs.
  • Open the bleeder screw on the caliper by turning it counterclockwise with an open-finish wrench. Compress the caliper pistons using channel locks in opposition to the inboard brake pad and the rear of the caliper. Tighten the bleeder screw with your open finish wrench before you release the brake pad and caliper from your channel locks. Set the caliper and pads onto the brand new rotor meeting, and tighten the caliper bolts between 22 and 26 foot-kilos, utilizing your half of-inch-drive torque wrench and Allen key socket to tighten the bolts.
  • Set up the front wheel onto the truck and tighten the lug nuts cosy together with your tire iron. Raise the front of the truck off the jack stands, then take away the stands from beneath the truck. Lower the F-150 to the ground. Tighten the lug nuts to a hundred foot-pounds in a star-shaped pattern utilizing your 1/2-inch-drive torque wrench and a thirteen/sixteen-inch wheel nut socket. Proper torquing procedures are important to eliminating entrance wheel and brake vibration. Do not overtighten the entrance wheel lug nuts.

 

 

 

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